Morocco 4x4 overland tour, day 7-8 to err, or is it day 6-7?

Taouz west to Zagora

This really is getting worse, I lost track of time big time being out in the middle of nowhere.  We spend hour in the morning planning our route at the campsite whilst James was looking a little grumpy no doubt because of the issues with the 90.  I honestly though that James would have to go home at this point which would have been really sad, there are not many 20 year olds who are prepared to do kind of trip and use their own spanners to fix things so if we lost him and Andy it would have been a real shame.

Planning the day

After the previous day we all checked out our cars, I had a loose bearing on the front which I tightened up.  Everyone checked there fluids etc. just in case.

James travelled to Zagora with his 90 with the Adam, Sid and Andy on the main road (laugh) whilst the rest of us took a two day trip cross country off road to meet them. The 90 got to Zegora on its own steam without the need to tow it which was great.  So whilst the 90 was being fixed the guys enjoyed a beer or two and a hotel room and a healthy repair and bar bills.

We however picked the slow route cross country with the 110's leaving at about 10am. The route we took was from Taouz West to Zagora.  We actually could not find the start of the track; however as usual a local popped up and gave us a hand finding the start, he drew us a map with buildings hills and oasis in it.  It worked a treat.

We meet our guide, well local who knew where he was going

And he drew us a map

Our trip that day was fantastic and included lots of technical tracks, some severe dunes, flat soft sand and then more broken rocks etc.  Also the odd trip though little villages.

After the initial part of this leg the terrain started to get a little harder and more varied from broken rocks on sand to sand flats and sand dunes and then rocks.

Broken rocks and Sand for miles

The noise and bumps were special ;-)

Time for lunch desert style, notice Mike getting the table out for tiffins

I got Ken and Rachel to stop and give this perspective on the tracks, you will see Larry purring past.

We were to drive till we got to our overnight camp, which was, well when we decided to stop.  We had taken the lead in Larry so we had a big advantage of not being stuck in dust all the time.  Also we had the disadvantage of needing to navigate and pick a route at the same time, go team Rachel and Chris.

The driving was all off road it was quite a trip and in places very very difficult, one main problem being the need to go across a dune field to get back on track after a slight wrong turn, 5k wrong, there are two videos below on this part of the trip.

Ok, we can see some more sand!!!

Land rover porn

At one point crossing the dunes Larry got slower and slower to the point were both Rachel and I were patting he dash shouting "go Larry" he took this well and maanged to get through the dunes.  Mike did well and got through ok, Ken got slightly stuck once, but go out.  I have no idea what we would have done if we really got stuck because the dunes were tight and it would not have been easy to get out.

Having said this we had a lot of fun on the large desert flats, there is nothing quite like tearing across a desert at 60mph until a washout appears.  Then all the sudden you are air born, and BANG you hit the ground again.  Top tip I would like to say that having a roof box and not putting everything inside boxes in Larry was a stupid idea everything in the roof box was banging around and our tent got a hole in it.  Mike had several casualties in his car on this leg of the trip, the bolognese sauce bought it .... as did some orange juice and also other stuff.

High speed crossing

When we thought we had got over most of the difficult parts of the trip we then went across an amazing lunar landscape followed by a 100 foot drop back down to the tracks, this was another great part of the day.

Lunar scape

Ended in a nice big drop

Err where are we?

After a long day we decided to camp before it got to dark west of Qum-Drane a mining town.  The initial campsite I picked was about a mile from a track.  As soon as we set-up some traffic went past and being Morocco they spotted us which meant soon the local beggars would be about.  So we decided to move on before we got hassle.  We did not move quickly enough, Larry grew a tree out of his head.

Larry tree head

At the second attempt we managed to find a great place, we headed cross country to what looked like a broken peak and setup in the middle of it secluded from all sides, it was a fab place to wild camp.  Very sheltered and well protected.

So off to our new home it was...

Wild camping in a dune and rock bowel

110 in the sunset

We all got setup and Mike and Jerry were planning the now usual three course meal, typically they did 9 courses in a day, excluding snacks.  Now if there is ever a definition of being British Mike and Jerry are it, no matter where they were or what was happening they always had time for a dam good meal, it reminded me of the carry on movie Up the Kyber.


Rachel and I had a mix of stuff warmed up, Rachel even managed to throw some on her foot.  Ken had soup.

Om nom desert style

Ah moon

Early start the following day to get to meet the rest of the chaps.

View over the landies from the nearest dune

Mike's roof tent

Sunrise, err somewhere

I really enjoyed this part of the trip, the crossing was what I expected before leaving, a part of me was sad that Adam, Andy, Sid and James had not been there, but when we meet up the next day and they told us of the cold beer they had had that though was long lost.


The following day we headed over some fast (50mph+) deserts and also tracks to Zegora, also a bonkers 60+ on a corrugated road to the main part of town.

The road to Zegora.

We did not meet the guys there but much further south in a place called Tagounite.  We refuelled waited for Adam, Sid, Andy and James then headed out into the desert for our best afternoon playing about in the dunes.

On corrugated roads, you need to go fast enough to bounce off the top of them to make your journey comfortable.  This also means you do not have a lot of grip, so do not go fast on them on corners or you will increase the probability of a good old fashion 180.

Anyway, we meet up with the guys which was great (except the comments about the cold beer) and the next day proved to be an epic.

Morocco 4x4 overland tour ,days 3 to 6

Spain to Morocco and onwards

Well by now I had lost track of time, I didn't know what day it was, I kinda lost track.  We managed to meet up with Adam and Sid in their P38 (don't laugh) and also meet with Ken at the campsite http://www.campingvaldevaqueros.com prior to our crossing to Morocco.  I would say the camp site was great but we were not there long enough, well not long enough for more than a beer and a sleep before we were off again.

Oh and on the way to the campsite from Salamanca the 90 decided to act up with the turbo quitting on several occasions probably due to the speed it was travelling at.  We pulled over at the services to have a break and a look see at what was wrong.

Pointing really helps.

There was nothing obviously wrong with the 90, but we put the issue down to the speed James was motoring at, the 90 did not have standard gearing so it was revving quite high and we agreed this was probably the issue.  Anyway, we decided to go slower and push on but not before a few theories discussed around the 90's problem.

James explaining the size of the squirrel wrapped around the turbo waste gate

We got to Carlos the ticket seller later in the day and picked up out tickets with no issues, we even got a present of Cidre and Chocolate Cake from Aldi, these were given away to locals ASAP.  What they did do well at the travel agent was to give us our White and Yellow travel cards as well as open tickets all for 200 euro.

The ferry crossing to Tanger Med

The next morning we went to the ferry port for the crossing to Tanger Med it was good having Ken there who had done the trip before because he knew the route and also what to expect.

A lot has been written about this crossing on how complicated it is and also how many forms you have to fill in etc.  Also a lot has been written about the best way to bake fairy cakes as well.  Not that you can derive anything in common between the two other than they are both easy to do.

At the port you get in to queue with your ticket, that will get you onto the boat, they will give you plenty of room to park.  If you can get out of your car well done, it was not easy for us to do.

How do we get out?

We noticed a sign which seemed to infer only poodles could get onto the boat.

Only Poodles allowed to Morocco

Desert Dog has a weird reaction to this sign.

Dog with the horn, high on Coca

When you are on board you need to fill in a white entry form for Morocco (a yellow one on the way back).  When the boat leaves you will see someone with a laptop and a queue next to them, join the queue, when you get to the front give the chap your passport and card and it will get stamped.  If you have already entered Morocco before as we had you need to use the number already stamped in the passport.  If you don't have one they will stamp one in your passport.  That's it.

Getting off is a laugh, you get into a queue and then all mayhem happens, basically you will get out when you get out, don't get stressed or you will not be happy.  We got out in 30 minutes.

However, Sid had his passport recorded incorrectly on the boat and by magic became a Dutch woman, err, considering he was travelling with a man in a P38 converted to a camper with a double bed I assume this was an easy mistake.  However, this did mean it took them 2 hours to get out.

To get your insurance (if needed) and currency you can do this at the port, its dead easy, our insurance was about 90 euros for 30 days any driver.

Give me insurance little man

Pets can get through as well providing they have the correct documentation and are in the right place.

Desert dog humping the roof bars

When you get through the port you turn right and follow the signed for about 3km to the motorway south.  We got the A1 to Kenitra, we wild camped in a cork forest for our 1st night in Morocco.

Oh it is at this point it should be noted the 90 broke down, the return fuel pipe fell off and wrapped around the drive shaft, they were stuck for 20 minuted till they re-fitted it, we waited for them at the services till they got to us.

Camp setup

Mikes roof tent

Sid enjoying the local food, SPAM!

Planning the next leg of the trip, or the invasion of Basingstoke

The 1st night was fab, Rachel had never wild camped before and I'm not sure all the other chaps has as well.  We were not disturbed at all and went to lengths to ensure we left nothing behind when we left.

Mike had a bit of an issue, during the night he went off for a poo and got lost in the dark and nearly did not make it back.  The lesson here is to not go far away from camp in the woods unless you know your way back.

Kenitra to Erg Chebbi

One thing is for sure, we had done a lot of miles at this point in time, we had not broken any Land Rovers (bar the squirrel and fuel line on the 90) on the trip so far.  So the long drive to Erg Chebbi from Kenitra went without any undue issues.  We did get lunch along the way (Tagine) and also saw some monkeys in the high pine forests, the scenery was pleasant, it really was a nice drive.

Parked up after the long climb up the hills

A Moroccan monkey

 
We refuelled at the massive price of 70p a liter along the way :-) We went along the Dra valley as well, that was quite pretty.  Also we generally took in the sights.  It was at this point I started to notice Mike and Jerry's eating habits.  Every time we stopped a table came out and they ate a three course meal. Also at 5 minute comfort breaks the wine came out for a quick tipple.

Pretty

Typical loaded Moroccan lorry

Erg Chebbi

A lot has been said about Erg Chebbi being the mecca for 4x4, I now think of it just as a play ground.  I wonder how many 4x4 trips only get this far play about and then go home and call it an overland trip.  We had full intentions of not being there for too long though and were due to push on the next day.

For one day we fell foul of the absolute brilliance of Erg Chebbi, a place for playing around.  During our day there we went a little mad.  Drove alongside some mad Spanish people who were on a rally and meet a nice English couple, obviously mad as well, who were with a group of older landy owners, barking mad and then filled up again at a mad busy service station.

If you want to go play, go to Erg Chebbi.  However, I would not consider this as an overland venue, this is the place where the beggars and commercialisation is just to much.  But it really makes you smile a lot.  I think we all felt we had made it to where our little adventure began.  Yay go us.

We made it yay!

The P38 was so please it made it to the desert it immediately refused to move.

Hello you there

Get me out, I'm stuck

If you jack the really high they will be able to get out

Yup they are stuck under there

There was a lot of walking about to be done.

Now in the clip above you will see a local Arab, I am not kidding you that these guys pop up everywhere, I seriously wonder where they come from.  This chap arrived on a little 50cc scooter bounding across the dunes, so much for 4x4's.

After pulling a few fuses the P38 just drove out of the sand pit, electronics eh!  After this mod was done it worked really well the rest of the trip, except for the engine cooling.  I would not say the P38 was as capable as a 90 or the 110, nor is Larry, but we all went the same places and the P38 did it in style.  We only saw two others the rest of the trip, the owners were also mad.

When we got to Erg Chebbi we spent some time practising in the sand for the long trips ahead.  Looking back now what we thought was driving through sand really was nothing, but it did give us some practise.  Larry got stuck as well, but I was not driving.  Rachel tried her 1st off road driving and buried Larry in sand.

Larry's 1st getting stuck

Rachel celebrating her driving achievement

We really did not know how to drive on sand at this time so everyone for some practise, it was really really needed.

Erg Chebbi to Zagora FAIL!

After a nights camping at Camping Karla (quite a nice campsite) we decided to tackle the route from Erg Chebbi to Zagora.  The route was a lot tougher than expected.  It resulted in a lot of getting stuck and also our first major breakdown, the 90 lost its rear diff and then broke a front drive shaft after it had been converted to a 2 wheel drive 90.

I would like to say if you are considering a trip like ours get a really good gps system, our maps and gps's were not up to it and more than once this caused issues.  Also if you are looking at google earth for a route remember the dunes look smaller from above.

Our navigation issues left us on day 1 doing about 5 miles in over 8 hours because we just went the wrong way once and ended up in dodo with a poorly 90.  At the end of the day we ended up with one broken car and a return trip to the camp site.

Action photo of Ken, hope someone got me

I got well and truly stuck and was the 1st to be rescued by the P38's winch and sand mats came to the rescue.

Removing the drive shafts to get a 90 into 2 wheel drive

Traditional English pose when watching work was employed

Rachel tried her hardest to be sympathetic to James who was lying under the 90 pulling parts off with Andy.

Om nom nom, James mum makes great cakes

James and I practicing our Zombie walks whilst Andy works on the 90

Eventually when we got out heading back to Camping Karla for the night.  James and Andy took the 90 to a local garage to re-build the rear diff just so the could get to Zegora for a more thorough re-build, at this point Adam and Sid decided to go with them the next day leaving Ken, Mike, Jerry, Rachel and I to travel overland to meet them the following day.  We knew we would have to stay somewhere over night en route.

I think at this point we all wondered what we had got ourselves into, this was not the last time on the trip we really pushed our off road experience a bit.

More to follow.

Morocco 4x4 overland tour, day 2

France to Spain meting up with the other 4x4's

Well would you believe it, this morning we found the adapter plus so I can now use the laptop, yay.  However, we found it on leaving the hotel so the laptop was flat all day, boo.

We meet with Mike and Jerry in the services south of Bordeaux.

200tdi meet Larry

Oh and the dogs are are home so we decided to get one for the trip, his name is Desert as in Desert Dog.

Desert Dog, where will he live?

Not much happened today, we traveled from Tours to Guijuelo near Salamanca in Spain, this was 676 ish miles an took about 14 hours with stops for shopping, lunch, fuel etc.  Larry did well, did not miss a beat or behave badly at all.

We did  the Garsides this evening.  So tomorrow providing Sid and Adam get here we have a convoy tomorrow.

Hotel Entredos is nice, much better than last nights and we can get breakfast tomorrow before setting off for the tickets and the campsite.

I'm tired and have collapsed on the bed.

Bed Om Nom

Morocco 4x4 overland tour, day 1 leaving home

Through France to Spain 4x4

Well this is it we are were heading off on out Morocco 4x4 overland tour at last.  We left home for the tour to Morocco with all the usual enthusiasm people have when your doing a trip you have wanted to do for years.

Off we go

Anyway, the ferry from Newhaven to Dieppe was cool, we sat in the sun on the poop deck for a couple of hours.  The weather was pretty good so we decided to sun bath ish.

Is it me or does the boat look like a bird eating cars

OMG where have I agreed to goto

Zzzzzzzzzzzz, that will teach him

This was followed by the drive to Tours, we stayed in Le Garden Hotel at Tours, the restaurant is shut.  So we popped off to town and the supermarket was closing.  So we looked desperately at a lady called Megan (odd that) who let us in.  We very quickly grabbed some cheese, pate, ham, bread and 12x2 liters of water.

Filled up and then back to the hotel quickly because we were told the bar shuts at 10pm, CRAP.  Oh and breakfast starts exactly 2 hours after we are leaving in the morning.  Double crap.

Morocco 4x4 overland tour, -1 day till our trip

Are we ready?

Well I have to say I'm laying in bed this morning wondering about a couple of meetings at work and also thinking if were actually ready to go on this little trip which we bought Larry for.  It's been an interesting few months I have learned more about Land Rovers that I thought I would.

I have a large bag of spares, all of which I do not want to use.  Also just to add to the learning and expense I had to weld a new front end on the car.


We will pack in true Suddell tradition, 1 hour before going, and although I think I have what I need for the trip, I'm sure we will be buying stuff along the way, this is normal for me I travel a lot and therefore don't pack much.

We have done no interior mods to Larry on the basis that were only going to Morrocco, therefore its a ground tent for us ;-) that could be an issue on rocks, but hey all part of travelling.

Anyway, a day to go, two meeting to have between now and then, quick packing and then more than 4,000miles in 16 days in a 16 year old car.  Hmmmm.

Different engine oils for Land Rover 300tdi

Some observations on engine oils

I thought I'd put this blog together which I will update over time as I change my engine oils to see what effect they have on MPG and also the feel of my Land Rover.  Larry is low mileage 55k so its a good test bed for this kind of exercise.

I have done this because I have noticed there is some changes in both the running and also the economy after I have changed oil types.  Sounds silly I guess, but having googled around a bit it seems other people have noticed a difference as well.  So I thought I'd put some subjective data up.

Firstly, when I got Larry he had been services by a chap who owned a motor mower company and I remember distinctly he said he used good quality oil which was used in his agg machines.  Our first long run in Larry returned 25mpg, which lets face it is crap for a diesel.  So the 1st thing I did was got a full service done, run the engine for 3,000 miles then change the engine oil again, the crap that came out was amazing and also smelly.

Service 1; I then filled up with Castrol Magnatec 10W40 A, this is a fully synthetic oil and on a run I was getting upto 30mpg and approx 26mpg on a mixed run around town.  Also the engine was quiet and I had no oil use, I guess my engine is in good nick.

Service 2; My latest oil change is with Halford cheap part synthetic 10W40 oil, I have immediately noticed a drop in MPG to about 28mpg on a run and 24mpg on mixed run around town,  Now I have some stock of this oil, but I will be using it all this year due to a long trip, so I will know exactly the mpg for a cheaper brand.  The engine now sounds a little less refind, not that it is refined anyway.

Also on my service 1 I used Halfords air and oil filter, for service 2 its britpart I think.  I'll keep to one supplier moving forward to ensure they quality of the air filter is not the issue.

I'll post updates on this one as I go along.

Adding a cabin temperature guage into a Discovery 300TDI

How to install a temperature gauge into you Discovery

Now I have re-fitted my roof lining I wanted to add a temperature gauge into the cabin, for no other reason than to tell how hot it is when I.m out and about.

I purchased from ebay a small battery digital car thermometer, the type which needs to be installed into a panel.  I had a spare place in the roof just behind the interior light, I believe this is normally where an electric sunroof control goes, mine does not have one so I thought that would be the best place to put it.

So I popped out the panel and drew around the gauge to work out where I needed to cut a hole, then with a small drill I roughly cut out the hole.

Cutting a hole in a plastic panel

I then used a sharp knife to cut the section out and tidy the edges until the temperature gauge fitted, they clip in so the cut needs to be quite accurate.

Hole cut and guage inserted

I then popped the temperature sensor behind the panel and just in the cabin where you can 't see it and pushed the panel I had taken out back into my land rover, bingo...

I can see the internal temprature...  Go me!