Morocco 4x4 overland tour, day 8 or 9

The most amazing dunes and fun

Our overland Tour to Morocco was getting even better now, fun fun, fun. We set out from Tagouite to travel to some dunes the north of Mhamid and have an early night after the previous days efforts. However, before we move onto the day itself I would like to say I was in need of a poop that morning.

Now a lot of people talk about having a poo when wild camping, but no one seems to put any real practical advice on the subject together on the Internet other than dig a hole poop in it and then burn your paper.  Can you imagine the smell. I therefore think its time for this to change.  I will say I respect the notion of digging a hole to poop into and burying your poop for it to degrade. All seems ok. Some people wait for days till the next good place to go, some just headed off when needed and came back relieved.

The problem I have with a wild camping poop is my knees dislocate easily.  So the thought of squatting over a hole only to find my right knee cap pops and I end up in the hole with what ever I have deposited there earlier does not appeal to me.  So I decided I needed a plan.  The plan I devised which was to drive Larry into the desert for a mile or so, dig a hole and then sit at the edge of my rock sliders and have a poop whilst reading the service manual between two open doors. Rock slider ha ha, how appropriate a name that is.

Anyway I was confident that unless someone was coming directly at me head on then there was no chance of anyone seeing what I was up to, so I could relax.  So there I was two doors open, shorts down reading a service manual for the car, then....

Have you seen Lawrence of Arabia, I have three times and the opening sequence  was re-enacted when I was having a crap, I saw it all unfold before my eyes.  As I said earlier, the locals pop up everywhere, even when you are doing personal stuff.  I did not expect to see one on a camel coming towards me when I had some rope hanging out.  I wondered if he would sho

Now this left me in a predicament, should I pinch it off and have a quick wipe, burn the paper, bury the poop and go; or tell the chap to go away rope hanging out and all and finish what I was doing?

Fortunately all the other guys got stuck on dunes at that exact moment in time and I was called on the CB to help so I took the 1st option above.  I got back to the group only to find out they had all go out of trouble.  So off I went again into the dunes for a 2nd attempt at said poop, which by then had lost its romance.

Can I give any advice here on wild camping toilet movements, nope.

Anyway back to the day, we drove to the north of a dune field and setup camp in the 44c temperatures, I got my tarp out for us to shelter under.  We decided to wait till it was cooler to start playing about in the sand.  This meant setting up a tarp for us to shelter under.

Need a little help here!

Andy and Mike took the opportunity to have a snooze.

Andy snoozing

Mike snoozing

Then we started to practise our Dune driving.

We all settled down for a while, except Ken who insisted in parking his 110 on a Dune and get it stuck, typical.

Ken parked

R watching everyone

Nice springs

Getting ready to be towed

Opps buried properly

Yay I'm out

Boo 90 stuck

P38 getting air!

The rush hour

Anyway, we had an awful lot of fun, everyone was playing in the sand and when night came along I gave a brief astronomy lesson.  Sid and Adam retired to the cocktail lounge and Mike, Rachel and I slept out under the stars, not together though.

Oh Range Rover dining and tiffins

I really can't say to much about this day other that it was fantastic, everyone was on a high, we all had a good play, Mike and Jerry had extra fruit during the evening three course meal, I believe it was peaches.  Sid and Adam had cocktails and even let us have some, we managed to blag some wine as well.  Even James was back to his normal self, big smiles.  I think the photo below sums up the area we were in nicely.

James and the Dunes

Oh how the next day was to change it all.

Morocco 4x4 overland tour, day 7-8 to err, or is it day 6-7?

Taouz west to Zagora

This really is getting worse, I lost track of time big time being out in the middle of nowhere.  We spend hour in the morning planning our route at the campsite whilst James was looking a little grumpy no doubt because of the issues with the 90.  I honestly though that James would have to go home at this point which would have been really sad, there are not many 20 year olds who are prepared to do kind of trip and use their own spanners to fix things so if we lost him and Andy it would have been a real shame.

Planning the day

After the previous day we all checked out our cars, I had a loose bearing on the front which I tightened up.  Everyone checked there fluids etc. just in case.

James travelled to Zagora with his 90 with the Adam, Sid and Andy on the main road (laugh) whilst the rest of us took a two day trip cross country off road to meet them. The 90 got to Zegora on its own steam without the need to tow it which was great.  So whilst the 90 was being fixed the guys enjoyed a beer or two and a hotel room and a healthy repair and bar bills.

We however picked the slow route cross country with the 110's leaving at about 10am. The route we took was from Taouz West to Zagora.  We actually could not find the start of the track; however as usual a local popped up and gave us a hand finding the start, he drew us a map with buildings hills and oasis in it.  It worked a treat.

We meet our guide, well local who knew where he was going

And he drew us a map

Our trip that day was fantastic and included lots of technical tracks, some severe dunes, flat soft sand and then more broken rocks etc.  Also the odd trip though little villages.

After the initial part of this leg the terrain started to get a little harder and more varied from broken rocks on sand to sand flats and sand dunes and then rocks.

Broken rocks and Sand for miles

The noise and bumps were special ;-)

Time for lunch desert style, notice Mike getting the table out for tiffins

I got Ken and Rachel to stop and give this perspective on the tracks, you will see Larry purring past.

We were to drive till we got to our overnight camp, which was, well when we decided to stop.  We had taken the lead in Larry so we had a big advantage of not being stuck in dust all the time.  Also we had the disadvantage of needing to navigate and pick a route at the same time, go team Rachel and Chris.

The driving was all off road it was quite a trip and in places very very difficult, one main problem being the need to go across a dune field to get back on track after a slight wrong turn, 5k wrong, there are two videos below on this part of the trip.

Ok, we can see some more sand!!!

Land rover porn

At one point crossing the dunes Larry got slower and slower to the point were both Rachel and I were patting he dash shouting "go Larry" he took this well and maanged to get through the dunes.  Mike did well and got through ok, Ken got slightly stuck once, but go out.  I have no idea what we would have done if we really got stuck because the dunes were tight and it would not have been easy to get out.

Having said this we had a lot of fun on the large desert flats, there is nothing quite like tearing across a desert at 60mph until a washout appears.  Then all the sudden you are air born, and BANG you hit the ground again.  Top tip I would like to say that having a roof box and not putting everything inside boxes in Larry was a stupid idea everything in the roof box was banging around and our tent got a hole in it.  Mike had several casualties in his car on this leg of the trip, the bolognese sauce bought it .... as did some orange juice and also other stuff.

High speed crossing

When we thought we had got over most of the difficult parts of the trip we then went across an amazing lunar landscape followed by a 100 foot drop back down to the tracks, this was another great part of the day.

Lunar scape

Ended in a nice big drop

Err where are we?

After a long day we decided to camp before it got to dark west of Qum-Drane a mining town.  The initial campsite I picked was about a mile from a track.  As soon as we set-up some traffic went past and being Morocco they spotted us which meant soon the local beggars would be about.  So we decided to move on before we got hassle.  We did not move quickly enough, Larry grew a tree out of his head.

Larry tree head

At the second attempt we managed to find a great place, we headed cross country to what looked like a broken peak and setup in the middle of it secluded from all sides, it was a fab place to wild camp.  Very sheltered and well protected.

So off to our new home it was...

Wild camping in a dune and rock bowel

110 in the sunset

We all got setup and Mike and Jerry were planning the now usual three course meal, typically they did 9 courses in a day, excluding snacks.  Now if there is ever a definition of being British Mike and Jerry are it, no matter where they were or what was happening they always had time for a dam good meal, it reminded me of the carry on movie Up the Kyber.


Rachel and I had a mix of stuff warmed up, Rachel even managed to throw some on her foot.  Ken had soup.

Om nom desert style

Ah moon

Early start the following day to get to meet the rest of the chaps.

View over the landies from the nearest dune

Mike's roof tent

Sunrise, err somewhere

I really enjoyed this part of the trip, the crossing was what I expected before leaving, a part of me was sad that Adam, Andy, Sid and James had not been there, but when we meet up the next day and they told us of the cold beer they had had that though was long lost.


The following day we headed over some fast (50mph+) deserts and also tracks to Zegora, also a bonkers 60+ on a corrugated road to the main part of town.

The road to Zegora.

We did not meet the guys there but much further south in a place called Tagounite.  We refuelled waited for Adam, Sid, Andy and James then headed out into the desert for our best afternoon playing about in the dunes.

On corrugated roads, you need to go fast enough to bounce off the top of them to make your journey comfortable.  This also means you do not have a lot of grip, so do not go fast on them on corners or you will increase the probability of a good old fashion 180.

Anyway, we meet up with the guys which was great (except the comments about the cold beer) and the next day proved to be an epic.

Morocco 4x4 overland tour ,days 3 to 6

Spain to Morocco and onwards

Well by now I had lost track of time, I didn't know what day it was, I kinda lost track.  We managed to meet up with Adam and Sid in their P38 (don't laugh) and also meet with Ken at the campsite http://www.campingvaldevaqueros.com prior to our crossing to Morocco.  I would say the camp site was great but we were not there long enough, well not long enough for more than a beer and a sleep before we were off again.

Oh and on the way to the campsite from Salamanca the 90 decided to act up with the turbo quitting on several occasions probably due to the speed it was travelling at.  We pulled over at the services to have a break and a look see at what was wrong.

Pointing really helps.

There was nothing obviously wrong with the 90, but we put the issue down to the speed James was motoring at, the 90 did not have standard gearing so it was revving quite high and we agreed this was probably the issue.  Anyway, we decided to go slower and push on but not before a few theories discussed around the 90's problem.

James explaining the size of the squirrel wrapped around the turbo waste gate

We got to Carlos the ticket seller later in the day and picked up out tickets with no issues, we even got a present of Cidre and Chocolate Cake from Aldi, these were given away to locals ASAP.  What they did do well at the travel agent was to give us our White and Yellow travel cards as well as open tickets all for 200 euro.

The ferry crossing to Tanger Med

The next morning we went to the ferry port for the crossing to Tanger Med it was good having Ken there who had done the trip before because he knew the route and also what to expect.

A lot has been written about this crossing on how complicated it is and also how many forms you have to fill in etc.  Also a lot has been written about the best way to bake fairy cakes as well.  Not that you can derive anything in common between the two other than they are both easy to do.

At the port you get in to queue with your ticket, that will get you onto the boat, they will give you plenty of room to park.  If you can get out of your car well done, it was not easy for us to do.

How do we get out?

We noticed a sign which seemed to infer only poodles could get onto the boat.

Only Poodles allowed to Morocco

Desert Dog has a weird reaction to this sign.

Dog with the horn, high on Coca

When you are on board you need to fill in a white entry form for Morocco (a yellow one on the way back).  When the boat leaves you will see someone with a laptop and a queue next to them, join the queue, when you get to the front give the chap your passport and card and it will get stamped.  If you have already entered Morocco before as we had you need to use the number already stamped in the passport.  If you don't have one they will stamp one in your passport.  That's it.

Getting off is a laugh, you get into a queue and then all mayhem happens, basically you will get out when you get out, don't get stressed or you will not be happy.  We got out in 30 minutes.

However, Sid had his passport recorded incorrectly on the boat and by magic became a Dutch woman, err, considering he was travelling with a man in a P38 converted to a camper with a double bed I assume this was an easy mistake.  However, this did mean it took them 2 hours to get out.

To get your insurance (if needed) and currency you can do this at the port, its dead easy, our insurance was about 90 euros for 30 days any driver.

Give me insurance little man

Pets can get through as well providing they have the correct documentation and are in the right place.

Desert dog humping the roof bars

When you get through the port you turn right and follow the signed for about 3km to the motorway south.  We got the A1 to Kenitra, we wild camped in a cork forest for our 1st night in Morocco.

Oh it is at this point it should be noted the 90 broke down, the return fuel pipe fell off and wrapped around the drive shaft, they were stuck for 20 minuted till they re-fitted it, we waited for them at the services till they got to us.

Camp setup

Mikes roof tent

Sid enjoying the local food, SPAM!

Planning the next leg of the trip, or the invasion of Basingstoke

The 1st night was fab, Rachel had never wild camped before and I'm not sure all the other chaps has as well.  We were not disturbed at all and went to lengths to ensure we left nothing behind when we left.

Mike had a bit of an issue, during the night he went off for a poo and got lost in the dark and nearly did not make it back.  The lesson here is to not go far away from camp in the woods unless you know your way back.

Kenitra to Erg Chebbi

One thing is for sure, we had done a lot of miles at this point in time, we had not broken any Land Rovers (bar the squirrel and fuel line on the 90) on the trip so far.  So the long drive to Erg Chebbi from Kenitra went without any undue issues.  We did get lunch along the way (Tagine) and also saw some monkeys in the high pine forests, the scenery was pleasant, it really was a nice drive.

Parked up after the long climb up the hills

A Moroccan monkey

 
We refuelled at the massive price of 70p a liter along the way :-) We went along the Dra valley as well, that was quite pretty.  Also we generally took in the sights.  It was at this point I started to notice Mike and Jerry's eating habits.  Every time we stopped a table came out and they ate a three course meal. Also at 5 minute comfort breaks the wine came out for a quick tipple.

Pretty

Typical loaded Moroccan lorry

Erg Chebbi

A lot has been said about Erg Chebbi being the mecca for 4x4, I now think of it just as a play ground.  I wonder how many 4x4 trips only get this far play about and then go home and call it an overland trip.  We had full intentions of not being there for too long though and were due to push on the next day.

For one day we fell foul of the absolute brilliance of Erg Chebbi, a place for playing around.  During our day there we went a little mad.  Drove alongside some mad Spanish people who were on a rally and meet a nice English couple, obviously mad as well, who were with a group of older landy owners, barking mad and then filled up again at a mad busy service station.

If you want to go play, go to Erg Chebbi.  However, I would not consider this as an overland venue, this is the place where the beggars and commercialisation is just to much.  But it really makes you smile a lot.  I think we all felt we had made it to where our little adventure began.  Yay go us.

We made it yay!

The P38 was so please it made it to the desert it immediately refused to move.

Hello you there

Get me out, I'm stuck

If you jack the really high they will be able to get out

Yup they are stuck under there

There was a lot of walking about to be done.

Now in the clip above you will see a local Arab, I am not kidding you that these guys pop up everywhere, I seriously wonder where they come from.  This chap arrived on a little 50cc scooter bounding across the dunes, so much for 4x4's.

After pulling a few fuses the P38 just drove out of the sand pit, electronics eh!  After this mod was done it worked really well the rest of the trip, except for the engine cooling.  I would not say the P38 was as capable as a 90 or the 110, nor is Larry, but we all went the same places and the P38 did it in style.  We only saw two others the rest of the trip, the owners were also mad.

When we got to Erg Chebbi we spent some time practising in the sand for the long trips ahead.  Looking back now what we thought was driving through sand really was nothing, but it did give us some practise.  Larry got stuck as well, but I was not driving.  Rachel tried her 1st off road driving and buried Larry in sand.

Larry's 1st getting stuck

Rachel celebrating her driving achievement

We really did not know how to drive on sand at this time so everyone for some practise, it was really really needed.

Erg Chebbi to Zagora FAIL!

After a nights camping at Camping Karla (quite a nice campsite) we decided to tackle the route from Erg Chebbi to Zagora.  The route was a lot tougher than expected.  It resulted in a lot of getting stuck and also our first major breakdown, the 90 lost its rear diff and then broke a front drive shaft after it had been converted to a 2 wheel drive 90.

I would like to say if you are considering a trip like ours get a really good gps system, our maps and gps's were not up to it and more than once this caused issues.  Also if you are looking at google earth for a route remember the dunes look smaller from above.

Our navigation issues left us on day 1 doing about 5 miles in over 8 hours because we just went the wrong way once and ended up in dodo with a poorly 90.  At the end of the day we ended up with one broken car and a return trip to the camp site.

Action photo of Ken, hope someone got me

I got well and truly stuck and was the 1st to be rescued by the P38's winch and sand mats came to the rescue.

Removing the drive shafts to get a 90 into 2 wheel drive

Traditional English pose when watching work was employed

Rachel tried her hardest to be sympathetic to James who was lying under the 90 pulling parts off with Andy.

Om nom nom, James mum makes great cakes

James and I practicing our Zombie walks whilst Andy works on the 90

Eventually when we got out heading back to Camping Karla for the night.  James and Andy took the 90 to a local garage to re-build the rear diff just so the could get to Zegora for a more thorough re-build, at this point Adam and Sid decided to go with them the next day leaving Ken, Mike, Jerry, Rachel and I to travel overland to meet them the following day.  We knew we would have to stay somewhere over night en route.

I think at this point we all wondered what we had got ourselves into, this was not the last time on the trip we really pushed our off road experience a bit.

More to follow.